Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in Colorado protects 30,780 acres of one of the deepest, narrowest canyons in North America, where the Gunnison River carved walls up to 2,722 feet deep through 1.7-billion-year-old Precambrian rock; established in 1999, the park draws about 506,000 visitors a year.
About Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park
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What Is Black Canyon Of The Gunnison Known For?
Best Things to See in Black Canyon Of The Gunnison
Painted Wall
The Painted Wall is the tallest cliff in Colorado at 2,250 feet — taller than any building ever constructed. Younger pegmatite intrusions, 1.4 billion years old, cut through the dark Precambrian gneiss in diagonal bands of white and pink that look from a distance like brushstrokes. The best views are from Painted Wall View and Cedar Point, both on the South Rim Road. Light changes the contrast dramatically between morning and late afternoon.
South Rim Scenic Drive and Overlooks
The South Rim Road runs 7 miles from the visitor center to Warner Point, with 12 named overlooks along the way. Each pullout looks directly into the canyon from a different angle. Gunnison Point, just below the visitor center, is the widest-view overlook and the first most visitors reach. Dragon Point and Chasm View offer the most dramatic sense of the canyon's depth, with the river visible far below at the base of near-vertical walls.
Oak Flat Loop Trail
Oak Flat Loop is the most rewarding moderate trail on the South Rim, descending from the canyon rim partway into the upper canyon through Gambel oak, serviceberry, and mountain mahogany. The 2-mile loop drops about 400 feet below the rim before returning to the visitor center area. The inner walls of the canyon are visible from several points on the descent and the route gives a different perspective than the overlooks above.
Inner Canyon Technical Routes
Six designated inner canyon routes descend from the South Rim to the Gunnison River on terrain that requires ropes, helmets, and scrambling ability. There are no maintained trails — routes are marked with painted dots on rock. A permit is required and issued at the visitor center on the day of the descent. The routes range from 1,800 to 2,700 feet of descent and are for experienced parties only; conditions including poison ivy, loose rock, and rattlesnakes make the descents serious undertakings.
Gunnison River Fishing and Kayaking
The Gunnison River through the canyon supports a wild population of rainbow and brown trout and is designated Gold Medal water by the state of Colorado — one of the highest angling designations available. Access to the river requires descending one of the inner canyon routes or entering from the East Portal at the eastern end of the park. The river is runnable by expert kayakers in spring and early summer; the section through the park is Class V and requires a permit.
North Rim
The North Rim is accessed by a 12-mile unpaved road from Crawford, Colorado, and receives far fewer visitors than the South Rim. The North Vista Trail runs 3 miles round trip to Exclamation Point, the highest overlook in the park, with a direct view down to the river 1,800 feet below. The North Rim has its own small primitive campground and no visitor center; rangers patrol but the experience is significantly more solitary than the South Rim.
Stargazing
Black Canyon of the Gunnison holds International Dark Sky Park designation. The canyon's remote location in western Colorado and the surrounding public lands produce minimal light pollution. The Milky Way core is visible to the naked eye from May through September. The South Rim Campground amphitheater hosts ranger-led astronomy programs on weekend evenings in summer. Bring a red-light headlamp — overlook railings end abruptly at the canyon edge.
Best Time to Visit Black Canyon Of The Gunnison
Wildflowers and snowmelt waterfalls, but the North Rim Road may remain closed through May and snow can linger on shaded trails.
Peak season with all roads open and full ranger programs; afternoon thunderstorms build quickly at rim elevation.
Best season overall — Gambel oak turns gold, crowds thin, and the light at lower sun angles sharpens the canyon's color contrast.
South Rim Road is plowed to Gunnison Point only; North Rim Road closes; snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are available.
Summer (June through August) is peak season, with the longest days, all facilities operating, and the most ranger-led programs. Rim temperatures reach 65–85 °F, comfortable for hiking. Afternoon thunderstorms develop almost daily from July onward; plan hikes for mornings and retreat from exposed overlooks before 2 p.m. The North Rim Campground fills on summer weekends.
Spring (April and May) offers wildflowers, snowmelt waterfalls cascading into the canyon, and few crowds. The South Rim road is typically open by April, but the North Rim road can remain closed through mid-May due to snow. Check road conditions at the park website before visiting. Some shaded trails retain ice into May.
Winter (November through March) closes the North Rim Road entirely and plows the South Rim Road only as far as the Gunnison Point overlook. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are available on unplowed road surfaces. The park is nearly empty and the canyon looks dramatically different under snow, but temperatures drop to 15–45 °F and wind chill is a serious factor at the rim.
Location
Nearest city: Montrose, Colorado Montrose Regional (MTJ), ~15 miles
Hiking in Black Canyon Of The Gunnison
| Trail | Difficulty | Distance | Elevation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chasm View Nature Trail | Easy | 0.3 mi (0.5 km) round trip | Minimal |
| Short walk to one of the most exposed canyon-edge viewpoints in the park. The drop is near-vertical; stay behind the guardrails. | |||
| Rim Rock Nature Trail | Easy | 1.0 mi (1.6 km) round trip | ~50 ft (15 m) |
| Interpretive trail near the visitor center through pinyon-juniper woodland with canyon views. Good introduction to the park's geology. | |||
| Cedar Point Nature Trail | Easy | 0.7 mi (1.1 km) round trip | ~75 ft (23 m) |
| Two overlooks in quick succession, including the best face-on view of the Painted Wall from the South Rim. | |||
| Warner Point Nature Trail | Moderate | 1.5 mi (2.4 km) round trip | ~180 ft (55 m) |
| Westernmost trail on the South Rim; reaches the deepest point visible from the rim with panoramic views of the San Juan Mountains to the south. | |||
| Oak Flat Loop | Moderate | 2.0 mi (3.2 km) loop | ~400 ft (122 m) |
| Descends partway into the upper canyon through Gambel oak; closest access to the inner canyon without a technical descent permit. | |||
| North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point | Moderate | 3.0 mi (4.8 km) round trip | ~425 ft (130 m) |
| North Rim trail reaching the highest overlook in the park at 8,563 ft, with a direct view 1,800 ft down to the river. North Rim Road is unpaved; high-clearance recommended. | |||
| Inner Canyon Routes | Strenuous | Variable, ~1.0–2.0 mi (1.6–3.2 km) one-way | ~1,800–2,700 ft (549–823 m) descent |
| Permit required; issued same-day at the visitor center. No maintained trail — routes marked with painted rock dots. Rope, helmet, and gloves required. Rattlesnakes and poison ivy present. Not recommended for inexperienced parties. | |||
Moderate trails move farther along the rim or descend slightly into the upper canyon. Warner Point Nature Trail (1.5 miles round trip, 180 ft gain) reaches the westernmost point on the South Rim with open views south to the San Juan Mountains. Oak Flat Loop (2.0-mile loop, 400 ft descent) is the most rewarding moderate hike — it drops below the rim into Gambel oak and serviceberry, giving a sense of the canyon walls from inside rather than above. North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point (3.0 miles round trip, 425 ft gain) begins on the North Rim and reaches the park's highest overlook at 8,563 feet, directly above the river 1,800 feet below; the North Rim Road is unpaved and high-clearance vehicles are recommended.
Inner Canyon Routes are in a different category from the maintained trail system. Six designated routes descend from the South Rim to the Gunnison River on unmarked terrain requiring ropes, helmets, and experience with exposed scrambling. A free permit, issued same-day at the South Rim Visitor Center, is required for all descents. Each route involves 1,800 to 2,700 feet of descent on loose talus, poison ivy, and rock painted with route dots. Most parties take 3 to 6 hours one-way and camp at the river overnight. The terrain is serious; check in with a ranger before any inner canyon attempt.
Camping & Lodging
| Campground | Sites | Season |
|---|---|---|
|
South Rim Campground
Near the South Rim Visitor Center. Electric hookups at a small number of sites. Restrooms and water available in season.
|
88 | Year-round (reduced services November – April) |
| Reservable May – October via Recreation.gov; first-come, first-served November – April. | ||
|
North Rim Campground
Primitive campground on the North Rim accessible by 12 miles of unpaved road from Crawford, CO. No hookups; vault toilets only. Water available seasonally.
|
13 | April – November (road closes in winter) |
| First-come, first-served; no reservations accepted. | ||
|
East Portal Campground
At river level at the eastern end of the park, reached by a steep road with a 16 percent grade — trailers and motorhomes prohibited. Near the Gunnison River Gold Medal fishing section.
|
15 | April – October |
| First-come, first-served; no reservations accepted. | ||
North Rim Campground (13 sites) is a primitive facility with no hookups, accessible by 12 miles of unpaved road from Crawford, Colorado. No reservations are taken; the campground is first-come, first-served and fills on summer weekends. Water is available seasonally from a hand pump. The road closes when winter snow makes it impassable, typically from November through April.
East Portal Campground (15 sites) sits at river level on the Gunnison River, reached by a road with a 16 percent grade — the steepest paved road in the National Park System. Trailers and motorhomes are prohibited on the descent. The campground has vault toilets, no hookups, and provides direct access to Gold Medal fishing and the inner canyon approach routes.
Entrance Fees & Reservations
No timed-entry reservation is required to drive into the park. South Rim Campground (88 sites) accepts reservations from May through October via Recreation.gov. North Rim and East Portal campgrounds are first-come, first-served with no reservation option. Inner canyon descent permits are free and issued in person at the South Rim Visitor Center on the day of the descent; no advance booking is available.
Confirm current fees and rules at the official park page before your visit.
Getting There
By car to the North Rim: From Delta, take Colorado Route 92 east to Crawford, then follow a 12-mile unpaved road south to the North Rim entrance. The road is suitable for most passenger vehicles in dry conditions; trailers are not recommended. High-clearance vehicles are preferred. This entrance has no fee station; pay at the South Rim or use an annual pass.
By car to East Portal: From the South Rim Visitor Center area, follow East Portal Road — a paved road with a sustained 16 percent grade — 5 miles to the river. Trailers and motorhomes are prohibited. The road is typically open April through October.
By air: Montrose Regional Airport (MTJ) is approximately 15 miles from the South Rim entrance and has commercial service connecting to Denver, Dallas, Phoenix, and other hubs. Grand Junction Regional Airport (GJT) is about 80 miles northwest with more connections to major hubs.
Geology
About 1.4 billion years ago, molten rock intruded through cracks in the existing schist and gneiss, cooling slowly to form lighter-colored pegmatite. These intrusions are now visible as the white and pink diagonal bands streaking the dark canyon walls — most dramatically at the Painted Wall, where the pegmatite dikes cross 2,250 feet of exposed cliff face. No two sections of wall look the same; the dike patterns are unique to each section of canyon.
The Gunnison River began cutting into this rock about 2 million years ago as regional uplift raised the Colorado Plateau and increased the river's gradient. The river drops an average of 34 feet per mile through the national park — fast enough to carry large boulders — giving it the abrasive power to cut through rock that would resist most rivers entirely. The canyon's narrowness comes from the extreme hardness of the Precambrian basement; softer rock would have eroded sideways as well as downward.
The canyon is still being cut today. Each spring flood season, the Gunnison carries rock fragments that grind the walls and floor deeper. The canyon does not widen quickly because the hard rock resists lateral erosion. The result is a slot-like profile that has changed little from what early surveyors saw when they first descended the river in 1900.
Wildlife
American dippers live along the Gunnison River at the canyon bottom, bobbing on rocks mid-current and walking underwater to feed on aquatic insects. They are the only songbird in North America that routinely submerges. Canyon wrens nest in crevices in the canyon walls and fill the gorge with a distinctive descending whistle that carries far above the river. Both species require a descent to the river to observe.
Mule deer and elk move through the pinyon-juniper woodland above the canyon rim and are commonly seen near the campgrounds at dawn and dusk. Black bears are present in the park but rarely seen by visitors. River otters were reintroduced to the Gunnison River downstream of the park and are occasionally reported in the canyon stretches accessible from East Portal. Golden eagles hunt the open shrubland above the rim year-round.
The Gunnison River Gold Medal section near East Portal supports wild rainbow and brown trout that grow large on the river's rich invertebrate life. The canyon's cold water and rocky substrate create ideal trout habitat; most anglers practice catch-and-release under Colorado's Gold Medal regulations.
History
U.S. Army Captain John W. Gunnison led a survey party through the region in 1853 while exploring railroad routes across the Rockies. His expedition skirted the canyon's upper reaches but did not attempt a descent. The Gunnison River and the city of Gunnison were named for him after his death at the hands of Paiute warriors later that year in Utah.
The canyon was considered impassable until 1900, when engineer Abraham Lincoln Fellows and rancher William Torrence descended the river over 9 days to survey the possibility of a water diversion tunnel. Their report led directly to construction of the Gunnison Tunnel, completed in 1909, which diverted Gunnison River water to the Uncompahgre Valley to irrigate farmland around Montrose — a project still in operation today. The tunnel portal is visible at East Portal near the park's eastern boundary.
President Herbert Hoover proclaimed Black Canyon of the Gunnison a National Monument on March 2, 1933. Congress redesignated the monument as Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park on October 21, 1999, expanding the protected area and raising its status to reflect the canyon's exceptional geological significance.
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Sources
- National Park Service — Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park — Official NPS page with current fees, alerts, and visitor information.